All You Need To Know

To Get Started Racing

Vintage Racing is Fun!!

All around the world thousands of competitors are finding, restoring, preserving, driving and racing performance cars from every era of history. In North America there are more than 170 racing events and thousands of other vintage events sanctioned by hundreds of clubs. Events range in size, some mega-events attracting as many as 600 entrants, while the small club events attract around 50.
The rasping whine of a race car at speed, that visual and physical treat of a highly tuned and stressed car enjoyed in an atmosphere of sportsmanship and competition, is truly exciting. That, combined with the setting of North America's great tracks, associated social events, convivial crew and friends, is what makes vintage racing. It's easy to get involved, and it's a friendly, low-key family endeavor. Vintage racing is the lowest cost "adventure sport" according to the Association of Adventure Sports. There are also many associated racing events which welcome the vintage race car: hillclimbs, autocrosses, rallies, rally tours, concours, car shows, car meets and marque and special interest club meets. There are also oval track showcases and road racing course exhibitions for less intense on-track sessions. The vintage car is truly a chariot to adventure and fun!

Selecting a Vintage Race Car

“Makes, Types, Classes and Categories”

"Makes, Types, Classes and Categories"
Cars competing in vintage racing and competition span the years from the dawn of the automobile age in the late 1800s to historic cars only a few years old.
The cars include sports cars, sports racing cars, Grand Prix Cars, Champ/Indy Cars, Formula Cars, Grand Touring Cars, Stock Cars and Sedans. Some of the cars have actual racing history and some are performance cars that could have been raced in their respective periods but are now seeing actual competition for the first time in vintage racing.
Most people who decide to enter vintage competition have a car such as an Austin Healey Sprite, an MG or a Triumph which, with a bit of preparation, can go racing. Others have or are seeking a car with race history for both its collector value as well as its suitability for vintage competition.
The racing organizations group several classes and groups together to form a racing grid. These are usually of similar size and performance potential for fun and safety.

• Pre-War Cars - pre WWII, rare enough that many ages and types may be grouped together to fill a grid.
• Small Production Sports Cars - these make up the bulk of the fields; MGAs, Sprites, Minis, Triumphs, etc. Beginner friendly.
• Medium Production Sports Cars - slightly faster but still inexpensive to prepare and race; Austin Healeys, Sunbeams, Triumphs, Porsche 356s.
• Large Production Sports Cars - the heavyweights of production racing; Corvettes, Mustangs, Jaguars.
• Historic Stock Cars, Sedans and Trans-Am Cars - An important part of racing history: fast, safe and straightforward.
• FIA World Championship and GTP Cars - the big fast prototypes that ran LeMans, Monza, Daytona, etc.
• Sports Racing Cars (large) - purpose built two seat race cars from 450S Maserati to Lola Can-Am cars. Fast and expensive then, fast and expensive now.
• Sports Racing Cars (small) - the fast but friendly two seat race car; Lotus Eleven, Lotus 23, Elva 7, Porsche 550.
• Formula Cars - open wheel cars built to a strict formula; F-Vee, FC, FB, F2, F Atlantic, F-5000, and F Jr. F-Vee is the least expensive.
• Grand Prix or Formula One and Historic Champ/Indy - the ultimate open-wheel, single seat racers.

Each car and category has advantages. The built-for-racing cars are usually easier to maintain but more expensive to buy and less suitable for street events. We strongly recommend talking to your race preparation shop about their recommendations on cars. There are many special interest groups such as Historic Can-Am, Historic Trans-Am, Pre-War Racing Group and Marque Registrys and Associations that can help, call Victory Lane at (650) 321-1411 for more info.

Car Preparation

Most vintage racing organizations stress preserving vintage race cars in the form they were raced in their most famous period or in the eligibility period designated by the club. In addition to cars with actual racing history, cars that could have been raced are eligible. Production Sports Car preparation for vintage racing is very straightforward and simpler than for almost any type of racing. At the most basic level, a very well prepared vintage-era restored street sports car with a few safety and reliability modifications can qualify and compete.
In the vintage era of the '50s and early '60s many production race cars were driven during the week and raced on weekends. As racing became more competitive in the U.S. and factory teams appeared, more preparation and special modifications were allowed; many for safety which also enhanced performance. This leads to the contemporary SCCA production racer, heavily modified, very expensive and suitable only for racing. The late '60s and early '70s eligibility cutoff of most clubs means that period- authentically prepared cars are slightly modified street cars, not tube-framed, fiberglass-bodied look-alikes, although some clubs are beginning to accept the later cars. Period-authentic preparation means doing the research. If your car had a racing history, you'll be preparing it to the specs in accord with the era it was raced. If you have your eye on a formula or sports racing car, the rule is still period-authentic and pre-'73. That may mean stripping off those wide wheels, tires, big wings and spoilers that were added later as modern modifications.
A car prepared for reliability and predictable handling rather than all-out speed will be much more enjoyable in vintage racing, give you more track time rather than garage time, and certainly give you more time for the parties that are so much a part of the vintage scene.

There are several guidelines (we strongly recommend consulting with a vintage race prep shop):
1) Chassis: Prepare it so it doesn't break.
-disassemble and crack-check if possible; at least clean it thoroughly and inspect the stress points and welds.
-replace excessively worn parts.
-do the research on the weak links in the system that broke "in-period."
-use your head on anticipating weak points and get advice from others racing similar cars or shops specializing in race prep, especially in vintage racing; they will keep it period authentic -safe yet quick.
2) Engine and Drivetrain: There is more than one story about dragging that old car out of the barn and racing it for five years with no maintenance, but. . . .the safe path is to completely check out the whole drivetrain-replace the stress and wear points like U-joint crosses and stub axles.
3) Suspension and Brakes: After you have prepared it so it doesn't break there are a few points:
-very good street-performance brake linings and high boiling point fresh fluid is the minimum.
4) Safety: The minimum requirements are a roll-over bar, seat belts, shoulder harness and an in-car fire extinguisher. Check with the clubs you plan to race with for their requirements.
Recommended is a fuel cell and an in-car fire system with multi-extinguisher nozzles with automatic and manual triggers. Driver equipment is considered elsewhere in this article.
5) Appearance: Last but not least, make it look good-not new, good! Some of the best vintage cars are raced in the 20-year-old livery in which they originally found glory.

Car Safety Equipment

How much are you worth? That's the tough part when we get into safety equipment. It's no secret that one can go racing with a full set of personal equipment costing less than $500 or one can spend over $2,000.
Similarly, the safety equipment in the car can be simple or complex. There are minimum requirements by the organizing clubs for both driver and car equipment. Check with them before buying for specifications. It's both a budget and an application choice, but buy the best you can afford.
Victory Lane magazine is a good source for dealers who are helpful and knowledgeable. The safety kit consists of: Driver: Snell-approved helmet, fire resistant suit, shoes, underwear, and gloves. Car: Seat, seat belt system, roll-over bar, safety padding, fuel cell.

Clubs & Tracks

Vintage races are organized by over 30 independent clubs and organizations at over three dozen tracks across the U.S. and Canada, see page 62 and ads in this issue. These organizations set their own individual rules, class structures and licensing requirements. Most belong to "The Vintage Motorsport Council," a schedule coordinating and rules advisory group. Outside the U.S., the international clubs operate under the FIA which sets rigid rules and requirements. It is important to contact the various clubs in your area and obtain a copy of their requirements. They have different rules on car acceptability with regard to age, race history, makes and models, restoration and race preparation. Licensing rules and driver school requirements also vary.

Driver Schools & Training

Need Information on Vintage Racing?

We're happy to help. If you've got questions about car selection, equipment and parts suppliers, clubs and organizations, or you-name-it, give us a call at Victory Lane Magazine (650) 321-1411 or visit our web site: http://www.victorylane.com/